Our trip to the elephant reservation, Mole National Park (pronounced 'mol'-'lay'), finally happened. But not without some obstacles. Friday morning, eight of our usual fifteen, took our first of many tro-tros to Kumasi in order to catch a STC bus to Tamale. STC is a type of Greyhound transit system, except the buses are ancient and faulty. The typical eight hour ride took ten hours because it broke down for two in a small town. Once we got on our way again, the driver turned around because we had left someone behind. Whoops. Finding that the stranded rider had disappeared, we turned around again. At our next rest stop, however, I was the one left behind. In the middle of my potty break in some distant field, I saw the bus picking up speed without me in it. So pulling up my pants, I dashed rather quickly across the field and started running along the road, chasing the bus. The Ghanaian kids grabbed my hands to run with me and started chanting 'Run Obruni, Run!' Classic. Of course, the bus stopped and I got on again, laughing hysterically. On the bus, though, we met a few people from the UK who had the same weekend itinerary so we got to hang out with them at Mole.
We arrived to Tamale at 8 pm and it was already pitch black, which was terrifying. A drunk man grabbed me and another kid tried to pickpocket Matt. Tamale is still a couple of hours away from Mole, so we had to stay the night there and catch another transport in the morning. Elliott and Megan had made several reservations at Tamale hostels while we were on the STC bus, but that didn't really help. For two hours we walked around in the dark, looking for a hostel that could house eight people. Thank goodness we didn't have all fifteen of us. We were eventually able to get a couple of rooms so we could nap for a few hours. Three am Saturday morning we trekked back to the bus station to catch a 4 o'clock bus to Damango (the town outside Mole). Unfortunately that was booked, so we waited at the station until the next one left at 8 am. That ride took about three hours. And from Damango we packed all of us and the driver into a five seater car to take us to Mole. But of course, that car had to break down as well. Luckily, a taxi was in the same spot our car broke down in so we hopped in that to get to the park By noon Saturday we had made it Mole!
By 1 pm we had already seen our first taste of wild life. While eating lunch, a group of babboons wreaked havoc on the restaurant. One of them stole my toast and a bottle of ketchup. Another stormed into the kitchen and came out with an egg in his mouth. And another launched at Elliott while he was trying to shoo it off. Sadly though, this was about the same time that I started feeling sick. Looking back on it, I probably had some sort of food poisoning from eating unwashed fruit. Beginning at that lunch, I couldn't keep any food down for the rest of the weekend. The rest of the day was dedicated to taking in the beauty of the park. The Mole hotel had a fantastic, almost aerial view of the 4,000 plus acres of natural forests. There was a perfect porch to take in the scenery and watch another of Africa's breathtaking sunsets. Before it got completely dark, though I made my way to the room to sleep as long as possible.
Sunday we woke up at six to make the 7 am safari walk. It was the perfect time to go. A little after sunrise is just cool enough to begin walking around. Before venturing out into the forest/savanah we suited up in our best safari outfits and blister-giving rubber boots. With my camera, I looked very National Geographic. Our tour guide PK, armed with a tranquilizer, led us into the reserve to catch a glimpse of the eight available species that inhabited that part of the park. Immediately, we saw the many warthogs and baboons. Then after only fifteen minutes we got to see a herd of almost twenty elephants! The behemoths were absolutely huge. We also saw some avatars, antelope and spider monkeys. Although it was only a three-hour trek, I was very dehydrated from being sick and the day was also a scorcher. I was having a hard time breathing and I barely made it back to the tourist centre. But I got 'er done and then I headed straight to the shower and took a nap.
Since there are only four major tourist spots in all of Ghana, most of the European and American volunteers end up meeting each other there. While at Mole, we all met some people from Holland and England who had the exact same agenda for the weekend. Over the couple of days, we shared stories and experiences and compared perspectives on Africa. Sunday night, we didn't want to stay at the Mole Motel again because it was too expensive and everyone at this point is pinching pesewas (pennies). Instead, we went to a hostel in Larabanga, just outside of Mole, owned by some guys named the Soleas Brothers. The hostel is famous for allowing its guest to sleep on the roof of the building, or really the mud hut structure, which we got to do. For dinner, we went to another hostel called the Savannah Lodge, where we ate rice around a campfire and shared riddles with some locals and Dutch volunteers. Sleeping on the roof was amazing. Without a mosquito-net to block the view or a moon to obstruct the lighting, the stars were brilliant! It was so peaceful to fall asleep too. At 4 a.m. we all awoke to the muezzin making the first prayer call at the mosque across the street. It was convenient though, because we had to catch a bus at 4:30 a.m.
The ride home was probably the hardest part about the weekend though. Every transportation we attempted to take broke down. And 9/10 of the roads back to Kumasi are not paved. So by the end of another 12 hours of driving in various tro-tros, the eight of us were caked in red dirt. We got back to Asenemaso around 3 p.m. on Monday, and the first thing I did was take two showers. The trip was a good one to take towards the end of our stay in Ghana, because otherwise I would have been too burnt out. There's only one week left and still a lot to finish up. The Asenemaso library opens on Friday and the last day of classes is Thursday. Six weeks seemed like a long time to stay in Ghana. But that was six weeks ago. Now I feel like I could stay a lot longer.
23 June 2008
17 June 2008
Rainy Season
Last weekend was definitely a slow one. Supposedly, we were going to a monkey sanctuary on Saturday but that didn't work out because it rained for eight hours. When it rains here, all operations shut down and people take cover. In America, life would carry on normally with a few sprinkles on your shoulders, while everything here is put on hold. Before the flash floods started, however, I explored more parts of Abuakwa. Going off the main road to Kumasi, I delved into the red dirt streets where crowded shops, colorful markets and rambunctious kids packed the road. Often I debate in my mind if I could take home either the sounds or smells of Africa, which would it be? It's hard to decide. In a typical day I hear babies screaming, obruni chants, drums banging, oversized trucks honking and pentacostal tongues babbling, while I'll smell banku steaming, canned fish at every corner, sewage and nose-clogging pollution. Such a toss-up.
Anyways, Saturday afternoon I bought some kente cloth for only 5 cedi. I was tempted to purchase the cloth that had guilding on it until I found out it was 25 cedi. Of course, I would like the most expensive option but I rationalized this time. Nana Opoku's wife Rebecca has a tailoring company, so she will make me a traditional dress out of the material I bought. As of now, I don't plan on wearing it at home but maybe I'll slip it on for our closing ceremony here or something of the sort.
Sunday I went to the Catholic church with some of the student teachers who I've befriended here. The service was nice, but I couldn't quite follow anything since it was in Twi. I just remember a lot of dancing and drums that helped keep me awake. The rest of the day was slow. We watched some Disney movies, since Elliott brought about 30 of them to donate to the library. Later, though, Elliott, Laura and I went to the only hotel in town to meet up with some Americans we had met earlier. They were able to get us in to use the hotel pool, which was very refreshing just surreal. Our new American friends happened to be all black too, so Laura and I were the only obruni looking people there. Ghanians do not know how to swim, but they do like to wear transparent bathing suits, do belly flops on you, chicken fight and belligerently splash you just for the heck of it. The three of us didn't stay too long, but we invited the other Americans to come to the Manyhea library one day and meet the kids we tutor.
The Asenemaso school is basically a zoo right now. There is never any method to the madness. Next week is some type of cultural festival so they are dropping all education to prepare for that. Teachers are in meetings all day so they leave their students to roam the school, while student participants in the festival practice their drumming and singing. Last Friday, they even pulled kids out of class for the day to help weed the surrounding fields and decorate the school grounds. We, or at least Lorna and I, still attempt to teach amidst the loudness. I just know the kids would hate to miss an exciting chapter of the Boxcar Children.
I had a great day at the library today! Finally, I helped some boys who really were interested in learning to read rather than speeding through a book. This one boy, Emmanuel, immediately called me over saying, "You. Come here. I don't know how to read so teach me." He was capable, just slow. I told him if he had trouble with a word to try breaking it up into syllables and pronouncing those. He caught on quickly and was able to remember the corrections I gave him. He even explained the stories back to me after we finished reading them. It really made my day to meet a kid who was so thankful to have someone to read with.
While leaving the Manhyea library today, another downpour sneaked up on us. Diana, Elliott, and some of the kids and I had just spotted a rainbow when the first drops fell. The rain arrives too quickly to make it home in time so we took shelter in an abandoned building near the road. The building was going to be a hotel, but like many other times funds ran short, and it never made it past the cement stage. Families and stragglers actually moved into the building to set up temporary homes, so there are sporadic clothes lines and fragments of blankets and furniture around. The handful of us ran to the top floor and got a great view of the storm rolling in over the skyline of giant African trees. We were stuck there for about an hour, so the kids taught us a few dancing games. It took me a minute to get the odd rythym down but soon Diana and I got it. Their dancing is innocently provocative. Some of the moves of one game were emulations of a man paying for a prostitute, oddly. Others, however, were not so promiscuous. It's just funny to see kids as young as six mastering all these moves.
Anyways, Saturday afternoon I bought some kente cloth for only 5 cedi. I was tempted to purchase the cloth that had guilding on it until I found out it was 25 cedi. Of course, I would like the most expensive option but I rationalized this time. Nana Opoku's wife Rebecca has a tailoring company, so she will make me a traditional dress out of the material I bought. As of now, I don't plan on wearing it at home but maybe I'll slip it on for our closing ceremony here or something of the sort.
Sunday I went to the Catholic church with some of the student teachers who I've befriended here. The service was nice, but I couldn't quite follow anything since it was in Twi. I just remember a lot of dancing and drums that helped keep me awake. The rest of the day was slow. We watched some Disney movies, since Elliott brought about 30 of them to donate to the library. Later, though, Elliott, Laura and I went to the only hotel in town to meet up with some Americans we had met earlier. They were able to get us in to use the hotel pool, which was very refreshing just surreal. Our new American friends happened to be all black too, so Laura and I were the only obruni looking people there. Ghanians do not know how to swim, but they do like to wear transparent bathing suits, do belly flops on you, chicken fight and belligerently splash you just for the heck of it. The three of us didn't stay too long, but we invited the other Americans to come to the Manyhea library one day and meet the kids we tutor.
The Asenemaso school is basically a zoo right now. There is never any method to the madness. Next week is some type of cultural festival so they are dropping all education to prepare for that. Teachers are in meetings all day so they leave their students to roam the school, while student participants in the festival practice their drumming and singing. Last Friday, they even pulled kids out of class for the day to help weed the surrounding fields and decorate the school grounds. We, or at least Lorna and I, still attempt to teach amidst the loudness. I just know the kids would hate to miss an exciting chapter of the Boxcar Children.
I had a great day at the library today! Finally, I helped some boys who really were interested in learning to read rather than speeding through a book. This one boy, Emmanuel, immediately called me over saying, "You. Come here. I don't know how to read so teach me." He was capable, just slow. I told him if he had trouble with a word to try breaking it up into syllables and pronouncing those. He caught on quickly and was able to remember the corrections I gave him. He even explained the stories back to me after we finished reading them. It really made my day to meet a kid who was so thankful to have someone to read with.
While leaving the Manhyea library today, another downpour sneaked up on us. Diana, Elliott, and some of the kids and I had just spotted a rainbow when the first drops fell. The rain arrives too quickly to make it home in time so we took shelter in an abandoned building near the road. The building was going to be a hotel, but like many other times funds ran short, and it never made it past the cement stage. Families and stragglers actually moved into the building to set up temporary homes, so there are sporadic clothes lines and fragments of blankets and furniture around. The handful of us ran to the top floor and got a great view of the storm rolling in over the skyline of giant African trees. We were stuck there for about an hour, so the kids taught us a few dancing games. It took me a minute to get the odd rythym down but soon Diana and I got it. Their dancing is innocently provocative. Some of the moves of one game were emulations of a man paying for a prostitute, oddly. Others, however, were not so promiscuous. It's just funny to see kids as young as six mastering all these moves.
13 June 2008
Still Alive Mom
Haven't posted in a while due to not being on the internet. So sorry if I worried anyone.
Last weekend, twelve of us went to a tiny village about an hour outside of Asenemaso. We went to see a more tribal envionment, but it was really just a very, very small farming village with about five mud huts and some other buildings. The little community had no idea we were coming so it was a surprise attack on the innocent people who have never seen obrunis before. The chief and his councilmen greated us formally and offered us a place to sleep in their shed, as long as we had no problem sleeping next to chickens. Of course we accepted their hospitality and rolled out our mats and set up our mosquito nets if we had them. I'm very thankful for my bug hut, even though it looks like I'm high maitenance. Regardless, it kept me protected from the man-eating bugs. There wasn't much to do in the village, but try to communicate with the natives. All the children were malnourised, had swollen bellies and were covered in dirt. Some young farmers showed me all their crops. Their biggest money-maker is cocoa, but it actually stinks before it is processed into chocolate. When we left the chief, who was drunk at the time off of palm alcohol, gave us some veggies and a live chicken we were forced to accept and put in the car with us on the ride home. Although the gift was ridiculous, it showed how hospitable and willing to give these people were. A chicken, especially a cock, provides them with food, meat and money, and they readily gave it us, no questions asked.
Teaching this week has been great! Lion King is finished and gone, so now we're reading The Boxcar Children. This is actually a chapter book so it's easier to stop and go. The level is perfect for the students to comprehend, yet still learn new vocabulary. I actually feel like Lorna and I are getting through to these kids! They're responding, using the words we teach them and getting excited about the lessons. After class, one day, one of the girls Veronica was repeating all the affirmations we tell them at the beginning of each class. She knew all of them! It's reassuring to know they are absorbing what we preach. I know most of the kids names now and their different personalities. Outside of class is the best time to talk to them, however, because I can better discern their humor, their cliques and their real-life behaviour.
Blake and I have done another HIV class, and we've gotten a postitive response from the Junior High School class. This past Wednesday we talked about rape, gender differences, mutual consent and reviewed the basics. The first class we held, the kids initially told us that no one has sex before marraige, but this last time they told us the exact opposite. When explaining gender differences, Blake and I asked them what men versus women are called when they are sexually promiscuous. I can't pronounce what the men were, something like Knawke (equivalent of a pimp), but they all cheered so loudly when Blake repeated it back to them. Sluts would be called Jezebels, but they said that under their breath. Ghana is clearly a male dominated society, and it takes more than a couple of white kids teaching an HIV class to change that.
The best part of the day has to be tutoring in the Manyhea library. Kids from four different schools show up there so it gets pretty crowded. But this is where I get to spend more one on one time with students. Kids from my class in Asenemaso started showing up too, which I love. I go to the library every day for two hours, and then we close up shop around five o'clock. As we leave to go home, a parade of kids starts to form. It's a little more than a mile walk to get home, but it takes almost 45 minutes because I'm so weighed down by kids anxious to hold my hand or bag and walk by my side. Even though I feel like I'm on display, like I do at every moment of the day, it's so fun. They all try to teach me Twi and ask me questions about America or absolutely anything else they can think of. On the way back there's a sugar cane field where you can chop a piece of the cane off with a machete and start chewing on it. It's as common to see someone chewing sugar cane as it is to see a person smacking gum in the states. The kiddos end up walking me all the way home, up till my front door. I then reassure them that I will see them tommorrow as they eagerly pester me to come inside. I love reading, talking and walking with them, but if I let them inside, the house would collapse.
We're not doing anything terribly exciting this weekend, just going to a monkey sanctuary. On Sunday I'll go to a Catholic church I was invited to by some older friends I've made. I've also been invited to go to a Pentacostal church, where they speak tongues. As freaky as that sounds, I want to try and see that but I might not have enough time. Next weekend we'll go to Mole to see the elephant reservation.
Last weekend, twelve of us went to a tiny village about an hour outside of Asenemaso. We went to see a more tribal envionment, but it was really just a very, very small farming village with about five mud huts and some other buildings. The little community had no idea we were coming so it was a surprise attack on the innocent people who have never seen obrunis before. The chief and his councilmen greated us formally and offered us a place to sleep in their shed, as long as we had no problem sleeping next to chickens. Of course we accepted their hospitality and rolled out our mats and set up our mosquito nets if we had them. I'm very thankful for my bug hut, even though it looks like I'm high maitenance. Regardless, it kept me protected from the man-eating bugs. There wasn't much to do in the village, but try to communicate with the natives. All the children were malnourised, had swollen bellies and were covered in dirt. Some young farmers showed me all their crops. Their biggest money-maker is cocoa, but it actually stinks before it is processed into chocolate. When we left the chief, who was drunk at the time off of palm alcohol, gave us some veggies and a live chicken we were forced to accept and put in the car with us on the ride home. Although the gift was ridiculous, it showed how hospitable and willing to give these people were. A chicken, especially a cock, provides them with food, meat and money, and they readily gave it us, no questions asked.
Teaching this week has been great! Lion King is finished and gone, so now we're reading The Boxcar Children. This is actually a chapter book so it's easier to stop and go. The level is perfect for the students to comprehend, yet still learn new vocabulary. I actually feel like Lorna and I are getting through to these kids! They're responding, using the words we teach them and getting excited about the lessons. After class, one day, one of the girls Veronica was repeating all the affirmations we tell them at the beginning of each class. She knew all of them! It's reassuring to know they are absorbing what we preach. I know most of the kids names now and their different personalities. Outside of class is the best time to talk to them, however, because I can better discern their humor, their cliques and their real-life behaviour.
Blake and I have done another HIV class, and we've gotten a postitive response from the Junior High School class. This past Wednesday we talked about rape, gender differences, mutual consent and reviewed the basics. The first class we held, the kids initially told us that no one has sex before marraige, but this last time they told us the exact opposite. When explaining gender differences, Blake and I asked them what men versus women are called when they are sexually promiscuous. I can't pronounce what the men were, something like Knawke (equivalent of a pimp), but they all cheered so loudly when Blake repeated it back to them. Sluts would be called Jezebels, but they said that under their breath. Ghana is clearly a male dominated society, and it takes more than a couple of white kids teaching an HIV class to change that.
The best part of the day has to be tutoring in the Manyhea library. Kids from four different schools show up there so it gets pretty crowded. But this is where I get to spend more one on one time with students. Kids from my class in Asenemaso started showing up too, which I love. I go to the library every day for two hours, and then we close up shop around five o'clock. As we leave to go home, a parade of kids starts to form. It's a little more than a mile walk to get home, but it takes almost 45 minutes because I'm so weighed down by kids anxious to hold my hand or bag and walk by my side. Even though I feel like I'm on display, like I do at every moment of the day, it's so fun. They all try to teach me Twi and ask me questions about America or absolutely anything else they can think of. On the way back there's a sugar cane field where you can chop a piece of the cane off with a machete and start chewing on it. It's as common to see someone chewing sugar cane as it is to see a person smacking gum in the states. The kiddos end up walking me all the way home, up till my front door. I then reassure them that I will see them tommorrow as they eagerly pester me to come inside. I love reading, talking and walking with them, but if I let them inside, the house would collapse.
We're not doing anything terribly exciting this weekend, just going to a monkey sanctuary. On Sunday I'll go to a Catholic church I was invited to by some older friends I've made. I've also been invited to go to a Pentacostal church, where they speak tongues. As freaky as that sounds, I want to try and see that but I might not have enough time. Next weekend we'll go to Mole to see the elephant reservation.
05 June 2008
Library Feuds
This week has seen more productive action than the last two weeks combined I feel like. Classes for my sixth graders get easier to manage everyday. I'm getting to know the kids and their personalities better, and the students are enjoying themselves more as well. We're still reading the Lion King, unfornuately, probably for the fifth time. Lorna and I do vocabulary, comprehension questions, discussions and whatever else so they can understand this story. I won't be able to get Simba or Hakuna Matata out of my mind if I tried. Tomorrow is the big quiz, though, so we'll see how my little geniuses measure up. Today we played hangman for the first time to go over vocabulary. It was such a hit. We split the class into two teams, the 'Angels' and 'Hello.' Ha. Once we created a sense of competition, all the kids suddenly knew how to spell these words and give us a definition. At the end, things got a little rowdy, when some boys started cheating. Intense yelling broke out and then they started climbing on desks. I couldn't stop laughing but Lorna took control. I'm excited for the quiz.
Besides regular class, Blake and I started our HIV/AIDS education project. He and I are teaching a junior high class twice a week and today was the first day. I don't like the term teaching here, because I'm no expert on the medical conditions but I have had the information drilled in me more than they have in Asenemaso. Honestly, I was nervous to start. Prior to leaving for Ghana, I did my own research on the basic facts of the matter and got a UNICEF guide to being a mentor on HIV. Regardless of being semi-prepared, I did not know what to expect: Will the kids want to talk to Blake and me about sex? Will they just stare at us as we ramble on about cold sores and condoms? Do they already know everything or do they not know anything at all? Surprisingly, however, the class went extremely well. At least I think so, the kids could be thinking something different. Blake and I wanted to create and informal atmosphere, so the students would feel more open and trusting towards us about such a sensitive subject. We did a pretty good job, emphasizing that we're only a few years older and we're all going through the same feelings and experiences. To start, we went through a true or false questionnare. The questions were simple enough, but it was evident that half were still misinformed. After that, we expanded on what they were confused on. Then we discussed the cultural practices that exist in Ghana that would possibly affect HIV/AIDS spreading. For example, during tribal customs, where there is cutting to make certain marks on the body, only one blade is used. Blake and I got some interesting questions too, that I feel like I can't even mention. Also, even though the kids have a pretty good idea what's going on, adults in the community are pretty clueless.
Subcontracting for the new library is underway. Estimates for the ceiling, furniture, shelves, paint, electricity and security are in, and tomorrow construction will start. From what I can tell, the job is relatively less complicated than I imagined. It doesn't take that much to build a library here, as long as you are able to babysit and prod along all the workers so they do their work by the deadline. It's sad though, when we open the library the books won't be there yet. A grand opening for an empty library. The books will get there a week after we leave, supposedly. I just wanted to see my little students reading all those books in the brand new library before we left.
Everyday this week other volunteers and I have been tutoring at the Manchea library during the afternoons. This has been a struggle, because the school where that library is located does not want to keep it open past three. Which is ridiculous because the kids get out of school at three! Twice I've had to yell at the teacher as he was putting on the padlocks to the library doors hours earlier than necessary. Since the volunteers have been at the library the past few weeks kids have been flocking there. Yesterday there were probably 80 to 100 in this tiny room. It got loud quickly and just became havoc. Crazy but exciting to see kids go beserk over books. Today was frustrating, however, because a funeral was taking place at the Manchea school. Classes were canceled for the day and the library was supposed to be closed. Funerals are all day celebrations here with hundreds of people, not particuarly for mourning. I walked over there anyways knowing some of the regular kids would still be waiting outside for me. The doors to the library were open when I got there, but not for reading. Instead, it was being used to store drinks and have a party. I was sooo angry! I walked in anyways, followed by a few kids. Sitting in a corner, we drew books off the shelves and started to read, all while I was shooting dirty glances at the obnoxiously loud people guzzling their sodas and eating their fufu. The headmistress of the Manchea school was one of the attendants at the funeral and heard I was in the library. She asked snobbishly what I was doing there today. I told her "I'm tutoring to kids in a library, is that not allowed??" She just walked away. After a while it go too loud to read, so we left, but I had the urge to turn tables as we were leaving.
This weekend we're going to a more remote village that I don't know the name of to spend a night. I hope it's more tribal, but it's all a guessing game.
Besides regular class, Blake and I started our HIV/AIDS education project. He and I are teaching a junior high class twice a week and today was the first day. I don't like the term teaching here, because I'm no expert on the medical conditions but I have had the information drilled in me more than they have in Asenemaso. Honestly, I was nervous to start. Prior to leaving for Ghana, I did my own research on the basic facts of the matter and got a UNICEF guide to being a mentor on HIV. Regardless of being semi-prepared, I did not know what to expect: Will the kids want to talk to Blake and me about sex? Will they just stare at us as we ramble on about cold sores and condoms? Do they already know everything or do they not know anything at all? Surprisingly, however, the class went extremely well. At least I think so, the kids could be thinking something different. Blake and I wanted to create and informal atmosphere, so the students would feel more open and trusting towards us about such a sensitive subject. We did a pretty good job, emphasizing that we're only a few years older and we're all going through the same feelings and experiences. To start, we went through a true or false questionnare. The questions were simple enough, but it was evident that half were still misinformed. After that, we expanded on what they were confused on. Then we discussed the cultural practices that exist in Ghana that would possibly affect HIV/AIDS spreading. For example, during tribal customs, where there is cutting to make certain marks on the body, only one blade is used. Blake and I got some interesting questions too, that I feel like I can't even mention. Also, even though the kids have a pretty good idea what's going on, adults in the community are pretty clueless.
Subcontracting for the new library is underway. Estimates for the ceiling, furniture, shelves, paint, electricity and security are in, and tomorrow construction will start. From what I can tell, the job is relatively less complicated than I imagined. It doesn't take that much to build a library here, as long as you are able to babysit and prod along all the workers so they do their work by the deadline. It's sad though, when we open the library the books won't be there yet. A grand opening for an empty library. The books will get there a week after we leave, supposedly. I just wanted to see my little students reading all those books in the brand new library before we left.
Everyday this week other volunteers and I have been tutoring at the Manchea library during the afternoons. This has been a struggle, because the school where that library is located does not want to keep it open past three. Which is ridiculous because the kids get out of school at three! Twice I've had to yell at the teacher as he was putting on the padlocks to the library doors hours earlier than necessary. Since the volunteers have been at the library the past few weeks kids have been flocking there. Yesterday there were probably 80 to 100 in this tiny room. It got loud quickly and just became havoc. Crazy but exciting to see kids go beserk over books. Today was frustrating, however, because a funeral was taking place at the Manchea school. Classes were canceled for the day and the library was supposed to be closed. Funerals are all day celebrations here with hundreds of people, not particuarly for mourning. I walked over there anyways knowing some of the regular kids would still be waiting outside for me. The doors to the library were open when I got there, but not for reading. Instead, it was being used to store drinks and have a party. I was sooo angry! I walked in anyways, followed by a few kids. Sitting in a corner, we drew books off the shelves and started to read, all while I was shooting dirty glances at the obnoxiously loud people guzzling their sodas and eating their fufu. The headmistress of the Manchea school was one of the attendants at the funeral and heard I was in the library. She asked snobbishly what I was doing there today. I told her "I'm tutoring to kids in a library, is that not allowed??" She just walked away. After a while it go too loud to read, so we left, but I had the urge to turn tables as we were leaving.
This weekend we're going to a more remote village that I don't know the name of to spend a night. I hope it's more tribal, but it's all a guessing game.
01 June 2008
Cape Coast '08!
Instead of sitting around the chief's house in Asenemaso this weekend and being lazy, the GRLP team decided to be adventurous and see another part of Ghana. Immediately after school on Friday, the fifteen of us hopped in a rented Tro Tro (with air conditioning!!!!) and made a squished five hour drive to Cape Coast. Usually in a Tro Tro I would feel suffocated and very trapped, but the AC made all the difference. I was completely content and in a great mood, even though our driver Gabriel got us lost severalt times. We arrived at a hostel late in the afternoon that was situated on a hill, overlooking the rest of the city. Beautiful view with a glimpse of the beach! The hostel, on the other hand, was frick nasty. It only costs 4 cedi a night, which is a good indicator of the quality. I shared a room and bed with Kelsey and Kat. Our bed had these bright pink Barbie sheets on them, but smelled like they had never been washed. We were careful not to lay face down on them. Ha ha. The running water wasn't working either and things were just covered in dirt. I've noticed that all the buildings in Ghana have this same awful stench. It must be something in the building material or the fact that things don't get washed regularly. Besides the pure filth of the hostel, it was still close to the center of town.
Once situated with the hostel rooms, we trekked downhill to a beach restaurant right next to Cape Coast Castle. We got to the beach right before sunset, so it was very scenic. As the night took over, we went into the most touristy restaurant we've been in so far. Of course it took two hours to get food though. Regardless, the meal was good and then we just hung out around the area for a while and talked.
In the morning we took a tour of Cape Coast Castle, which was interesting and haunting at the same time. This castle was the original site for slave trading in Africa for the British. The tour guide took us into the dungeons and described the horrors that went on within them. Apparently, in a space the size of my kitchen and family room, 250 people were kept for three months without sunlight or the ability to move. They slept, went to the bathroom, and were fed in that one area. The theory was if a black man could survive three months in the dungeons then they were strong enough to make the three month journey across the Atlantic. The British governor's room was the same size for one person with ten windows, clearly the complete opposite conditions. It's hard to fathom the racist mentalities of the Europeans at that time, and how such injustice against humanity was allowed to take place for centuries. And what I often don't think about, is how recent the slave trade took place. It didn't really end until the 1870's. The castle was cool to see but disturbing at the same time.
That same Saturday afternoon, we took the Tro Tro to a beach resort area. It was only supposed to be 20 minutes away, but it took an hour and a half to get there because Mike couldn't remember the name of the place he went the summer before. We stopped at three different places before we got to the right one. It was worth it though! The beach area, called KoSa beach resort, was owned by a German lady and in the middle of nowhere. We had lunch, sat on the sand and drank right-off-the-palm-tree coconut milk. Reluctantly we returned to the hostel that evening though, because we had left some of our stuff there. Otherwise we for sure would have stayed the night there.
This morning we left the hostel in Cape Coast and drove to Kumak National Rainforest. A tour guide took us for a quick rendez-vous around the outskirts of the forest. There were seven narrow canopy bridges we got to walk across, which were definitely the highlight of the tour. The bummer though was no animals!! I'm in Africa and I've only spotted a monkey once! Otherwise, there's only scrawny goats, dogs, tons of chickens, dinosaur-lizards, and cats that you wonder how they stay alive. After our brisk hike in the rainforest we had lunch at the tourist spot, which was a very bad idea. I have learned that restaurants are no fun in Africa, unless you like waiting for two hours for a spam sandwich. I prefer eating the cultural dishes my homestay family makes by far.
Overall, it was great to see the coast of Ghana. It almost felt like we weren't in Africa for a day. When we got back to Asenemaso tonight, however, I had this weird homecoming feeling I didn't expect. The town already has a sense of familiarity and comfort that I never saw coming.
Once situated with the hostel rooms, we trekked downhill to a beach restaurant right next to Cape Coast Castle. We got to the beach right before sunset, so it was very scenic. As the night took over, we went into the most touristy restaurant we've been in so far. Of course it took two hours to get food though. Regardless, the meal was good and then we just hung out around the area for a while and talked.
In the morning we took a tour of Cape Coast Castle, which was interesting and haunting at the same time. This castle was the original site for slave trading in Africa for the British. The tour guide took us into the dungeons and described the horrors that went on within them. Apparently, in a space the size of my kitchen and family room, 250 people were kept for three months without sunlight or the ability to move. They slept, went to the bathroom, and were fed in that one area. The theory was if a black man could survive three months in the dungeons then they were strong enough to make the three month journey across the Atlantic. The British governor's room was the same size for one person with ten windows, clearly the complete opposite conditions. It's hard to fathom the racist mentalities of the Europeans at that time, and how such injustice against humanity was allowed to take place for centuries. And what I often don't think about, is how recent the slave trade took place. It didn't really end until the 1870's. The castle was cool to see but disturbing at the same time.
That same Saturday afternoon, we took the Tro Tro to a beach resort area. It was only supposed to be 20 minutes away, but it took an hour and a half to get there because Mike couldn't remember the name of the place he went the summer before. We stopped at three different places before we got to the right one. It was worth it though! The beach area, called KoSa beach resort, was owned by a German lady and in the middle of nowhere. We had lunch, sat on the sand and drank right-off-the-palm-tree coconut milk. Reluctantly we returned to the hostel that evening though, because we had left some of our stuff there. Otherwise we for sure would have stayed the night there.
This morning we left the hostel in Cape Coast and drove to Kumak National Rainforest. A tour guide took us for a quick rendez-vous around the outskirts of the forest. There were seven narrow canopy bridges we got to walk across, which were definitely the highlight of the tour. The bummer though was no animals!! I'm in Africa and I've only spotted a monkey once! Otherwise, there's only scrawny goats, dogs, tons of chickens, dinosaur-lizards, and cats that you wonder how they stay alive. After our brisk hike in the rainforest we had lunch at the tourist spot, which was a very bad idea. I have learned that restaurants are no fun in Africa, unless you like waiting for two hours for a spam sandwich. I prefer eating the cultural dishes my homestay family makes by far.
Overall, it was great to see the coast of Ghana. It almost felt like we weren't in Africa for a day. When we got back to Asenemaso tonight, however, I had this weird homecoming feeling I didn't expect. The town already has a sense of familiarity and comfort that I never saw coming.
29 May 2008
New Routine
Last night I moved into Charles' house with Amanda, Diana and Megan. He lives closer to the Asenemaso school, but still close enough to the chief's house and the internet cafe. I really like our new setup. The three other girls and I share a bright blue room with two beds. There's enough space to walk from one side of the room to the other and we were actually able to set up mosquito nets this time. The shower isn't connected to the toilet, so I already feel cleaner. There's no sink or a mirror. A sink is kind of tricky to do without but it's nice not having a mirror. It really has been refreshing not worrying about make up, drying my hair or clothes. Charles' wife is Auntie Maggie and he has one 11 year old girl Efria, 10 year old boys Jr. and Sr., and two other boys that are 5 and 2. I think they are both called Kofi, but I'm not sure. The names are hard to catch.
The family is as hospitable as the rest of the country. Charles is pretty funny, he just laughs at everything. I should start calling him Chuckles, he would love that. Auntie Maggie is friendly and obliging, but gets offended if we don't eat all her food. She made us these giant rice balls, like the size of two fists, and fish stew for dinner. Diana, who is the pickiest eater I've ever met, was about to flush her food down the toilet before we stopped her. I forced down most of the rice ball just to make Auntie Maggie happy and be culturally sensitive.
Lorna and I have been teaching for three days now. We're becoming more comfortable with the situation and we are learning the individual characteristics of some of the kids in our class. Today was a little more frustrating because our class keeps getting bigger. It's difficult too when the kids are just too shy or scared to tell us what they're thinking. We're reading the Lion King, and today was the second time reading it. It's about a second grade level book, but they are having a hard time understanding it. We just have to read very, very slowly.
The GRLP team started planning library construction yesterday. I'm on the layout committee, which means I'll help decide what type of furniture we'll want, how much and where we'll put it. There should be enough room for 6,000 books, two computers and projector and a tv/vcr. We'll start doing subcontracting next week. We also started doing tutoring in the library Mike built last year, but we sadly found out that the typical hours of operation were for a couple of hours only while kids were in school. From now on, the library will be open till 5 so kids can actually go to it after school. In a few days, planned activities like creative writing and movies will be available.
Tomorrow after class we are all going to Cape Coast, which was the original capital of Gold Coast (Ghana). There's an old slave castle to see, a beach and a national rainforest, so they'll be more to tell in a couple of days.
The family is as hospitable as the rest of the country. Charles is pretty funny, he just laughs at everything. I should start calling him Chuckles, he would love that. Auntie Maggie is friendly and obliging, but gets offended if we don't eat all her food. She made us these giant rice balls, like the size of two fists, and fish stew for dinner. Diana, who is the pickiest eater I've ever met, was about to flush her food down the toilet before we stopped her. I forced down most of the rice ball just to make Auntie Maggie happy and be culturally sensitive.
Lorna and I have been teaching for three days now. We're becoming more comfortable with the situation and we are learning the individual characteristics of some of the kids in our class. Today was a little more frustrating because our class keeps getting bigger. It's difficult too when the kids are just too shy or scared to tell us what they're thinking. We're reading the Lion King, and today was the second time reading it. It's about a second grade level book, but they are having a hard time understanding it. We just have to read very, very slowly.
The GRLP team started planning library construction yesterday. I'm on the layout committee, which means I'll help decide what type of furniture we'll want, how much and where we'll put it. There should be enough room for 6,000 books, two computers and projector and a tv/vcr. We'll start doing subcontracting next week. We also started doing tutoring in the library Mike built last year, but we sadly found out that the typical hours of operation were for a couple of hours only while kids were in school. From now on, the library will be open till 5 so kids can actually go to it after school. In a few days, planned activities like creative writing and movies will be available.
Tomorrow after class we are all going to Cape Coast, which was the original capital of Gold Coast (Ghana). There's an old slave castle to see, a beach and a national rainforest, so they'll be more to tell in a couple of days.
Call Me Madam
FYI: I wrote this on May 27 but am posting it today because of computer problems. So pretend it was Tuesday.
Teaching finally began today! I was planning on teaching a class by myself, but thank goodness Lorna and I decided to partner together. We have class 6B in Asenemaso Primary School, and there are 74 students in our class. Oh geeze. Technically, the students are sixth graders and their ages range from 10 to 13 years old, but their level is more like third grade. Most of the students share desks with one or two others and barely have any paper, textbooks or writing utencils.
Ghana didn't start concentrating on education until it gained its independence from the U.K. 51 years ago, and standardized education wasn't implicated until about the 70's at the earliest. So even the teachers here aren't that well educated, because while they were in school a stabilized structure did not exist. Ghana is beginning to catch up, but at a slow pace. Besides the lack of resources, the composure in the classroom needs to be more effective. For the most part, students are caned or hit when they misbehave. Fear is the biggest motivator for the kids to do well, but this doesn't really mean they're learning anything. All of their answers are "Yes, madam. That is right...I agree." Even when the question does not require a yes or no response. They are too scared to say anything else to avoid shame from the teacher and ridicule from other students. This makes it difficult to assess how much they know or are comprehending from the lesson.
The GRLP team witnessed a few classroom sessions last week and saw saw the regular teachers' approach. Lorna and I decided that we wanted to instill a new atmosphere into our classroom. So at the begginning of today, Madam Lorna and Madam Kate wrote an affirmation on the board, which we'll do everyday. Today's was "You are loved." We had them repeat the mantra out loud and tell their peers the same thing. It sounds cheesy, but Lorna and I wanted them to know that they are loved by God, by us, and by each other. Our rules were based around the same thing: Treat others as you like to be treated; Speak one at a time; Respect others' opinions; There are no right or wrong answers. This seemed to create a positive response, and their regular teacher was pleased that we were being creative.
After our introduction, we had everyone make nametags then I took a picture of all 74 students holding their tags. This way Lorna and I can try and memorize them quickly. I then read them the classic story "The Tortoise and the Hare" from the Children's Book of Virtues. Even though it's a short one, I had to stop after a few sentences to explain and ask them comprehension questions.
The rest of the class time was spent on a writing prompt. We asked them to describe their favorite thing about their self and explain why. This exercise allowed us to see how big the gap was between the students. Some could easily write a whole page and answer the question as well as elaborate. Others really struggled and seemed too nervous to answer the question. Lorna and I attempted to explain that it doesn't have to be your eyes or legs, but a personality trait, like being friendly, caring, social or a good athlete. We collected the responses, and there were a few well written ones, as well as a few hilarious, and a couple wrote asking us for money. Later, I learned that not all of the kids have been going to school school since first grade. The school just groups everyone by age, but a kid could have started attending school in fifth grade, causing them to be severly behind everyone else.
Overall, it was a good first day. Starting tomorrow we'll try and start a book that we'll read everyday. Initially I was a tad nervous to start teaching, but then I saw that the students truly are eager to learn and listen to us.
And tomorrow I really believe we'll be moving in with our new families. Diana, Amanda, Megan and I will be living with one of the town elders, Charles. He's helped us out a lot already and his house will have a better family atmosphere because he has five kiddos! Living with everyone in the chief's house was cool because we could just call a meeting together whenever, but I'm sure we'll just all reconvene at night anyways.
Teaching finally began today! I was planning on teaching a class by myself, but thank goodness Lorna and I decided to partner together. We have class 6B in Asenemaso Primary School, and there are 74 students in our class. Oh geeze. Technically, the students are sixth graders and their ages range from 10 to 13 years old, but their level is more like third grade. Most of the students share desks with one or two others and barely have any paper, textbooks or writing utencils.
Ghana didn't start concentrating on education until it gained its independence from the U.K. 51 years ago, and standardized education wasn't implicated until about the 70's at the earliest. So even the teachers here aren't that well educated, because while they were in school a stabilized structure did not exist. Ghana is beginning to catch up, but at a slow pace. Besides the lack of resources, the composure in the classroom needs to be more effective. For the most part, students are caned or hit when they misbehave. Fear is the biggest motivator for the kids to do well, but this doesn't really mean they're learning anything. All of their answers are "Yes, madam. That is right...I agree." Even when the question does not require a yes or no response. They are too scared to say anything else to avoid shame from the teacher and ridicule from other students. This makes it difficult to assess how much they know or are comprehending from the lesson.
The GRLP team witnessed a few classroom sessions last week and saw saw the regular teachers' approach. Lorna and I decided that we wanted to instill a new atmosphere into our classroom. So at the begginning of today, Madam Lorna and Madam Kate wrote an affirmation on the board, which we'll do everyday. Today's was "You are loved." We had them repeat the mantra out loud and tell their peers the same thing. It sounds cheesy, but Lorna and I wanted them to know that they are loved by God, by us, and by each other. Our rules were based around the same thing: Treat others as you like to be treated; Speak one at a time; Respect others' opinions; There are no right or wrong answers. This seemed to create a positive response, and their regular teacher was pleased that we were being creative.
After our introduction, we had everyone make nametags then I took a picture of all 74 students holding their tags. This way Lorna and I can try and memorize them quickly. I then read them the classic story "The Tortoise and the Hare" from the Children's Book of Virtues. Even though it's a short one, I had to stop after a few sentences to explain and ask them comprehension questions.
The rest of the class time was spent on a writing prompt. We asked them to describe their favorite thing about their self and explain why. This exercise allowed us to see how big the gap was between the students. Some could easily write a whole page and answer the question as well as elaborate. Others really struggled and seemed too nervous to answer the question. Lorna and I attempted to explain that it doesn't have to be your eyes or legs, but a personality trait, like being friendly, caring, social or a good athlete. We collected the responses, and there were a few well written ones, as well as a few hilarious, and a couple wrote asking us for money. Later, I learned that not all of the kids have been going to school school since first grade. The school just groups everyone by age, but a kid could have started attending school in fifth grade, causing them to be severly behind everyone else.
Overall, it was a good first day. Starting tomorrow we'll try and start a book that we'll read everyday. Initially I was a tad nervous to start teaching, but then I saw that the students truly are eager to learn and listen to us.
And tomorrow I really believe we'll be moving in with our new families. Diana, Amanda, Megan and I will be living with one of the town elders, Charles. He's helped us out a lot already and his house will have a better family atmosphere because he has five kiddos! Living with everyone in the chief's house was cool because we could just call a meeting together whenever, but I'm sure we'll just all reconvene at night anyways.
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