29 May 2008

New Routine

Last night I moved into Charles' house with Amanda, Diana and Megan. He lives closer to the Asenemaso school, but still close enough to the chief's house and the internet cafe. I really like our new setup. The three other girls and I share a bright blue room with two beds. There's enough space to walk from one side of the room to the other and we were actually able to set up mosquito nets this time. The shower isn't connected to the toilet, so I already feel cleaner. There's no sink or a mirror. A sink is kind of tricky to do without but it's nice not having a mirror. It really has been refreshing not worrying about make up, drying my hair or clothes. Charles' wife is Auntie Maggie and he has one 11 year old girl Efria, 10 year old boys Jr. and Sr., and two other boys that are 5 and 2. I think they are both called Kofi, but I'm not sure. The names are hard to catch.

The family is as hospitable as the rest of the country. Charles is pretty funny, he just laughs at everything. I should start calling him Chuckles, he would love that. Auntie Maggie is friendly and obliging, but gets offended if we don't eat all her food. She made us these giant rice balls, like the size of two fists, and fish stew for dinner. Diana, who is the pickiest eater I've ever met, was about to flush her food down the toilet before we stopped her. I forced down most of the rice ball just to make Auntie Maggie happy and be culturally sensitive.

Lorna and I have been teaching for three days now. We're becoming more comfortable with the situation and we are learning the individual characteristics of some of the kids in our class. Today was a little more frustrating because our class keeps getting bigger. It's difficult too when the kids are just too shy or scared to tell us what they're thinking. We're reading the Lion King, and today was the second time reading it. It's about a second grade level book, but they are having a hard time understanding it. We just have to read very, very slowly.

The GRLP team started planning library construction yesterday. I'm on the layout committee, which means I'll help decide what type of furniture we'll want, how much and where we'll put it. There should be enough room for 6,000 books, two computers and projector and a tv/vcr. We'll start doing subcontracting next week. We also started doing tutoring in the library Mike built last year, but we sadly found out that the typical hours of operation were for a couple of hours only while kids were in school. From now on, the library will be open till 5 so kids can actually go to it after school. In a few days, planned activities like creative writing and movies will be available.

Tomorrow after class we are all going to Cape Coast, which was the original capital of Gold Coast (Ghana). There's an old slave castle to see, a beach and a national rainforest, so they'll be more to tell in a couple of days.

Call Me Madam

FYI: I wrote this on May 27 but am posting it today because of computer problems. So pretend it was Tuesday.

Teaching finally began today! I was planning on teaching a class by myself, but thank goodness Lorna and I decided to partner together. We have class 6B in Asenemaso Primary School, and there are 74 students in our class. Oh geeze. Technically, the students are sixth graders and their ages range from 10 to 13 years old, but their level is more like third grade. Most of the students share desks with one or two others and barely have any paper, textbooks or writing utencils.
Ghana didn't start concentrating on education until it gained its independence from the U.K. 51 years ago, and standardized education wasn't implicated until about the 70's at the earliest. So even the teachers here aren't that well educated, because while they were in school a stabilized structure did not exist. Ghana is beginning to catch up, but at a slow pace. Besides the lack of resources, the composure in the classroom needs to be more effective. For the most part, students are caned or hit when they misbehave. Fear is the biggest motivator for the kids to do well, but this doesn't really mean they're learning anything. All of their answers are "Yes, madam. That is right...I agree." Even when the question does not require a yes or no response. They are too scared to say anything else to avoid shame from the teacher and ridicule from other students. This makes it difficult to assess how much they know or are comprehending from the lesson.
The GRLP team witnessed a few classroom sessions last week and saw saw the regular teachers' approach. Lorna and I decided that we wanted to instill a new atmosphere into our classroom. So at the begginning of today, Madam Lorna and Madam Kate wrote an affirmation on the board, which we'll do everyday. Today's was "You are loved." We had them repeat the mantra out loud and tell their peers the same thing. It sounds cheesy, but Lorna and I wanted them to know that they are loved by God, by us, and by each other. Our rules were based around the same thing: Treat others as you like to be treated; Speak one at a time; Respect others' opinions; There are no right or wrong answers. This seemed to create a positive response, and their regular teacher was pleased that we were being creative.
After our introduction, we had everyone make nametags then I took a picture of all 74 students holding their tags. This way Lorna and I can try and memorize them quickly. I then read them the classic story "The Tortoise and the Hare" from the Children's Book of Virtues. Even though it's a short one, I had to stop after a few sentences to explain and ask them comprehension questions.
The rest of the class time was spent on a writing prompt. We asked them to describe their favorite thing about their self and explain why. This exercise allowed us to see how big the gap was between the students. Some could easily write a whole page and answer the question as well as elaborate. Others really struggled and seemed too nervous to answer the question. Lorna and I attempted to explain that it doesn't have to be your eyes or legs, but a personality trait, like being friendly, caring, social or a good athlete. We collected the responses, and there were a few well written ones, as well as a few hilarious, and a couple wrote asking us for money. Later, I learned that not all of the kids have been going to school school since first grade. The school just groups everyone by age, but a kid could have started attending school in fifth grade, causing them to be severly behind everyone else.
Overall, it was a good first day. Starting tomorrow we'll try and start a book that we'll read everyday. Initially I was a tad nervous to start teaching, but then I saw that the students truly are eager to learn and listen to us.
And tomorrow I really believe we'll be moving in with our new families. Diana, Amanda, Megan and I will be living with one of the town elders, Charles. He's helped us out a lot already and his house will have a better family atmosphere because he has five kiddos! Living with everyone in the chief's house was cool because we could just call a meeting together whenever, but I'm sure we'll just all reconvene at night anyways.

25 May 2008

T.I.A.

T.I.A. stands for This Is Africa. It comes from the movie Blood Diamond with Leonardo DiCaprio which takes place in Sierra Leone. Leo would say it every time a deal never came through, someone got their arm chopped off, or when he needed to bribe to get his way. T.I.A. has described the entirety of the trip so far and will most likely continue to do so. Now, it's not to the degree that people are dying or being sketchy, but we use the acronym to describe the laid-back yet chaotic lifestyle here. The GRLP team has been living with chief Nana Opuko is his pimp house (relatively speaking) for five days now. We should have been situated with our own families three days ago, but everything just gets delayed. Now we won't be moving into our new homes until Tuesday, because we found out tomorrow is a continental holiday, African Unity Day. Tomorrow is also laundry day! Yay, because I stink!

Basically for three days we have slept in till 9:30 which is pretty late here, had our breakfast served to us, read or journal or talk, have our lunch served to us, read or nap, maybe have something eventful happen in the neighborhood, have our dinner served to us, then stay up all night talking outside and bonding with one another and neighbors that come to visit. All of us are just waiting for things to happen, but everything is put on slow motion here. The suffocating heat, the traffic and bad roads, the lack of education, and bad communication all contribute to this. But we will have plenty of time to work.

I am a little stir crazy not being able to immediately go into action. This waiting is also good for my patience, however. Usually, I'm jumping from meeting to appointment to another activity and I never settle down. This slow-paced life is good for my soul, not to say that I won't be getting into gear soon.

This afternoon just after lunch, a few of us were sick of talking on the patio, so we went out into the town to mingle. Mike showed us a few homes and we sat down and talked with several families. Really, we were just dropping by to say hi, but when you enter a home here it's more formal. The families grab all their stools or chairs and make sure we sit down. Then they offer us something to drink like Coke, not that they have any to spare. We oblige their hospitality, because if you don't its considered insulting. It makes me feel lazy that no one ever lets me help or that others are always trying to make me feel comfortable. The hospitality here, however, is completely pure. All they want is to see us happy, nothing in return. In America, if you do something for another person, such as lend them money or fill their gas tank up, a favor is expected in return, even if never verbalized. That does not exist in Ghana.

Continuing, after talking with some families, the few of us went over to the schoolyard where a lot of children and parents were just hanging out. I set down my bag and started playing with them. I'm not that great at football/soccer so the alternative is dancing. As soon as a child learns to walk, they begin dancing here. The kids and parents started crowding around us, clapping and jumping up and down. When I let go of my inhibitions, it's so fun to move however you feel, because they just think anything I do is hilarious. Their dance moves are rhythmic and exciting, and they're able to keep a beat without music. One move required me being thrown in the air by an old woman! Ha. I wish I had a picture of that.

We left the schoolyard around 7:00 pm, and I pulled out my camera as we were leaving. I try to get discreet pictures while no one is looking, but my bulky camera sticks out pretty bad. When they see my camera, they get all excite and say "Sister Kate, one picture! One picture! Please!" They all rush infront of me crowding the shot, ruining the artisitic composition. But, hey, it's still cute. It's even more funny, when an adult or elder wants a picture. They pose in a powerful stance without smiling, trying to look as prominent as possible. After I snap the picture, they jump on me, grabbing at the camera so they can look at themselves. I can't post any pictures, because it would take hours to load them on these slow computers. Eventually, I might attempt it.

Tomorrow, we're going to Kumasi, the bigger town 30 minutes away. I hope to get some more supplies for my class I'll be teaching Tuesday and I need some more malaria medicine because I don't have enough. Who knows though, we might not all be able to fit in the van to go there or no one will be working because it's holiday. But, hey, This Is Africa.

23 May 2008

Grand Welcoming

On the second day, the team got an early start at 7 am and loaded one of the white Tro Tro busses to go to Kumasi. Of course, we were on Africa time so we didn’t actually leave until 10:30 am because our drivers had to find rope to tie our luggage down on top of the bus. Having luggage on top is illegal by the way, so we had to pay off police men every time they pulled us over so we could continue driving. Anyways, after 6 hours of a hot, shoulder-to-shoulder ride we made it to Assina-Maso, the town which we will now call home. We were dropped off at the chief’s house, which is fairly large. Chief Nana Opoku Agyemang Piani III is the second most important chief of the entire Asante tribe, but we just call him Nana.
So for the past three days the fifteen of us have been staying in his home. The Chief, his family, the elders and the entire village is so hospitable, feeding us well and obliging all our questions and preferences. Thus far, we have spent our time getting over the jet lag, getting accustomed to the overwhelming heat, and being introduced into the community. I have met so many people that already know my name, and it is very hard to remember everyone else’s. I realize now that I take the diversity of home in America for granted. The people here are very homogenous, and we as “obrunis” clearly stick out.
This Friday morning, I had one of the most unique experiences of my life. As part of our introduction, an entire town assembly was called at the school where will be teaching to commence a welcoming ceremony. All the volunteers were sat under a nice shady tent (thank goodness, since it was the hottest day ever!!) and hundreds of students in their little orange and brown uniforms crowded around at all angles. Then the chief, elders and faculty took their spots across from us. During the four hour ceremony, cultural dancers performed, lung-exhausting speeches were made in English and Twi (native language), we were introduced and our mission was explained, and gifts were presented to us. I have never felt so welcome in my life! Basically, the fifteen of us are town celebrities. Leaving the school was crazy, because all the children swarmed to us and wanted to hold our hand or have their picture taken. One little boy named Abraham was adamant on having me know who he was and what class he was in so I could teach him. He even asked for paper to write his name down and to have a picture taken with me. The children here are so beautiful and eager for attention, I just want to love on all of them, but that is physically impossible. Of course, each team member will affect different kids in their own ways.
After the ceremony, it hit me how much of an impact the library we’ll be building and teaching we’ll be doing will leave on the community. We haven’t even done anything yet, and they’re already eternally grateful for our presence. The library will house more books than any of the students have ever seen and will even have a computer. It will basically be a gateway to higher learning and better jobs for all the students. Then if these children are able to one day leave their hometown and get good jobs, they can return to Assina-Maso and reinvest in the community. It’s a long process to be relieved of poverty, but hopefully it will be permanent.
Tomorrow, we are going to a funeral. This is a big deal because funerals here are more like parties to celebrate the person’s life rather than mourn it. After that we’ll finally be assigned to our separate families and begin another step of immersion into Ghanaian society.

20 May 2008

Just Arrived

The GRLP team arrived in Accra, Ghana this morning at 7 am. Kat and Megan met us at the airport. They have already been here for two weeks and have been staying with a woman named Evelyn in Wa, a northwestern city 13 hours from the capital. Evelyn does women's rights work and other community empowerment, and has been housing Kat and Megan since they got here. She has been gracious enough to invite the rest of the team to her home to see what she does as well as visit more of the country. We are staying the night in Accra tonight at Crystal House hostel. It's pretty nice considering the state of the rest of they city. Taking a bus from the airport to the hostel was an overload for our senses. The smells and colors were so vibrant and in your face. Everytime we stopped the van people trying to sell us anything would crowd the windows and practically throw their products into the car until we would buy it.
After getting settled in the hostel, I went out with Lorna to walk around the neighborhood for a couple of hours. It is very hot here, but not as hot as it can be. I was sweating almost immediately. Of course being the only white people around, people are curious. Everyone wanted to have a conversation with us or ask where we are from or what we are doing here. Ghanaians are incredibly friendly and willing to help with anything when we look the least bit distressed or confused. I bought some plantains, nuts and water all for about 2 cedis (almost 2 dollars). They drink water here out of 300 mL plastic bags. Just bite a small hole out of the top and drink!
While walking, we attracted a crowd of some young school kids who had just gotten out for the day. They stayed with us for a while asking all sorts of questions. Very cute, calling me madam and commenting on the whiteness of my skin. Surpisingly, people don't like it when I take their picture so I have to ask permission, which hinders the amount of photos I take. But hey I have 6 weeks.
We leave for Kumasi tomorrow morning on busses at 6 am and from there we'll get situated with our families.