T.I.A. stands for This Is Africa. It comes from the movie Blood Diamond with Leonardo DiCaprio which takes place in Sierra Leone. Leo would say it every time a deal never came through, someone got their arm chopped off, or when he needed to bribe to get his way. T.I.A. has described the entirety of the trip so far and will most likely continue to do so. Now, it's not to the degree that people are dying or being sketchy, but we use the acronym to describe the laid-back yet chaotic lifestyle here. The GRLP team has been living with chief Nana Opuko is his pimp house (relatively speaking) for five days now. We should have been situated with our own families three days ago, but everything just gets delayed. Now we won't be moving into our new homes until Tuesday, because we found out tomorrow is a continental holiday, African Unity Day. Tomorrow is also laundry day! Yay, because I stink!
Basically for three days we have slept in till 9:30 which is pretty late here, had our breakfast served to us, read or journal or talk, have our lunch served to us, read or nap, maybe have something eventful happen in the neighborhood, have our dinner served to us, then stay up all night talking outside and bonding with one another and neighbors that come to visit. All of us are just waiting for things to happen, but everything is put on slow motion here. The suffocating heat, the traffic and bad roads, the lack of education, and bad communication all contribute to this. But we will have plenty of time to work.
I am a little stir crazy not being able to immediately go into action. This waiting is also good for my patience, however. Usually, I'm jumping from meeting to appointment to another activity and I never settle down. This slow-paced life is good for my soul, not to say that I won't be getting into gear soon.
This afternoon just after lunch, a few of us were sick of talking on the patio, so we went out into the town to mingle. Mike showed us a few homes and we sat down and talked with several families. Really, we were just dropping by to say hi, but when you enter a home here it's more formal. The families grab all their stools or chairs and make sure we sit down. Then they offer us something to drink like Coke, not that they have any to spare. We oblige their hospitality, because if you don't its considered insulting. It makes me feel lazy that no one ever lets me help or that others are always trying to make me feel comfortable. The hospitality here, however, is completely pure. All they want is to see us happy, nothing in return. In America, if you do something for another person, such as lend them money or fill their gas tank up, a favor is expected in return, even if never verbalized. That does not exist in Ghana.
Continuing, after talking with some families, the few of us went over to the schoolyard where a lot of children and parents were just hanging out. I set down my bag and started playing with them. I'm not that great at football/soccer so the alternative is dancing. As soon as a child learns to walk, they begin dancing here. The kids and parents started crowding around us, clapping and jumping up and down. When I let go of my inhibitions, it's so fun to move however you feel, because they just think anything I do is hilarious. Their dance moves are rhythmic and exciting, and they're able to keep a beat without music. One move required me being thrown in the air by an old woman! Ha. I wish I had a picture of that.
We left the schoolyard around 7:00 pm, and I pulled out my camera as we were leaving. I try to get discreet pictures while no one is looking, but my bulky camera sticks out pretty bad. When they see my camera, they get all excite and say "Sister Kate, one picture! One picture! Please!" They all rush infront of me crowding the shot, ruining the artisitic composition. But, hey, it's still cute. It's even more funny, when an adult or elder wants a picture. They pose in a powerful stance without smiling, trying to look as prominent as possible. After I snap the picture, they jump on me, grabbing at the camera so they can look at themselves. I can't post any pictures, because it would take hours to load them on these slow computers. Eventually, I might attempt it.
Tomorrow, we're going to Kumasi, the bigger town 30 minutes away. I hope to get some more supplies for my class I'll be teaching Tuesday and I need some more malaria medicine because I don't have enough. Who knows though, we might not all be able to fit in the van to go there or no one will be working because it's holiday. But, hey, This Is Africa.
25 May 2008
23 May 2008
Grand Welcoming
On the second day, the team got an early start at 7 am and loaded one of the white Tro Tro busses to go to Kumasi. Of course, we were on Africa time so we didn’t actually leave until 10:30 am because our drivers had to find rope to tie our luggage down on top of the bus. Having luggage on top is illegal by the way, so we had to pay off police men every time they pulled us over so we could continue driving. Anyways, after 6 hours of a hot, shoulder-to-shoulder ride we made it to Assina-Maso, the town which we will now call home. We were dropped off at the chief’s house, which is fairly large. Chief Nana Opoku Agyemang Piani III is the second most important chief of the entire Asante tribe, but we just call him Nana.
So for the past three days the fifteen of us have been staying in his home. The Chief, his family, the elders and the entire village is so hospitable, feeding us well and obliging all our questions and preferences. Thus far, we have spent our time getting over the jet lag, getting accustomed to the overwhelming heat, and being introduced into the community. I have met so many people that already know my name, and it is very hard to remember everyone else’s. I realize now that I take the diversity of home in America for granted. The people here are very homogenous, and we as “obrunis” clearly stick out.
This Friday morning, I had one of the most unique experiences of my life. As part of our introduction, an entire town assembly was called at the school where will be teaching to commence a welcoming ceremony. All the volunteers were sat under a nice shady tent (thank goodness, since it was the hottest day ever!!) and hundreds of students in their little orange and brown uniforms crowded around at all angles. Then the chief, elders and faculty took their spots across from us. During the four hour ceremony, cultural dancers performed, lung-exhausting speeches were made in English and Twi (native language), we were introduced and our mission was explained, and gifts were presented to us. I have never felt so welcome in my life! Basically, the fifteen of us are town celebrities. Leaving the school was crazy, because all the children swarmed to us and wanted to hold our hand or have their picture taken. One little boy named Abraham was adamant on having me know who he was and what class he was in so I could teach him. He even asked for paper to write his name down and to have a picture taken with me. The children here are so beautiful and eager for attention, I just want to love on all of them, but that is physically impossible. Of course, each team member will affect different kids in their own ways.
After the ceremony, it hit me how much of an impact the library we’ll be building and teaching we’ll be doing will leave on the community. We haven’t even done anything yet, and they’re already eternally grateful for our presence. The library will house more books than any of the students have ever seen and will even have a computer. It will basically be a gateway to higher learning and better jobs for all the students. Then if these children are able to one day leave their hometown and get good jobs, they can return to Assina-Maso and reinvest in the community. It’s a long process to be relieved of poverty, but hopefully it will be permanent.
Tomorrow, we are going to a funeral. This is a big deal because funerals here are more like parties to celebrate the person’s life rather than mourn it. After that we’ll finally be assigned to our separate families and begin another step of immersion into Ghanaian society.
So for the past three days the fifteen of us have been staying in his home. The Chief, his family, the elders and the entire village is so hospitable, feeding us well and obliging all our questions and preferences. Thus far, we have spent our time getting over the jet lag, getting accustomed to the overwhelming heat, and being introduced into the community. I have met so many people that already know my name, and it is very hard to remember everyone else’s. I realize now that I take the diversity of home in America for granted. The people here are very homogenous, and we as “obrunis” clearly stick out.
This Friday morning, I had one of the most unique experiences of my life. As part of our introduction, an entire town assembly was called at the school where will be teaching to commence a welcoming ceremony. All the volunteers were sat under a nice shady tent (thank goodness, since it was the hottest day ever!!) and hundreds of students in their little orange and brown uniforms crowded around at all angles. Then the chief, elders and faculty took their spots across from us. During the four hour ceremony, cultural dancers performed, lung-exhausting speeches were made in English and Twi (native language), we were introduced and our mission was explained, and gifts were presented to us. I have never felt so welcome in my life! Basically, the fifteen of us are town celebrities. Leaving the school was crazy, because all the children swarmed to us and wanted to hold our hand or have their picture taken. One little boy named Abraham was adamant on having me know who he was and what class he was in so I could teach him. He even asked for paper to write his name down and to have a picture taken with me. The children here are so beautiful and eager for attention, I just want to love on all of them, but that is physically impossible. Of course, each team member will affect different kids in their own ways.
After the ceremony, it hit me how much of an impact the library we’ll be building and teaching we’ll be doing will leave on the community. We haven’t even done anything yet, and they’re already eternally grateful for our presence. The library will house more books than any of the students have ever seen and will even have a computer. It will basically be a gateway to higher learning and better jobs for all the students. Then if these children are able to one day leave their hometown and get good jobs, they can return to Assina-Maso and reinvest in the community. It’s a long process to be relieved of poverty, but hopefully it will be permanent.
Tomorrow, we are going to a funeral. This is a big deal because funerals here are more like parties to celebrate the person’s life rather than mourn it. After that we’ll finally be assigned to our separate families and begin another step of immersion into Ghanaian society.
20 May 2008
Just Arrived
The GRLP team arrived in Accra, Ghana this morning at 7 am. Kat and Megan met us at the airport. They have already been here for two weeks and have been staying with a woman named Evelyn in Wa, a northwestern city 13 hours from the capital. Evelyn does women's rights work and other community empowerment, and has been housing Kat and Megan since they got here. She has been gracious enough to invite the rest of the team to her home to see what she does as well as visit more of the country. We are staying the night in Accra tonight at Crystal House hostel. It's pretty nice considering the state of the rest of they city. Taking a bus from the airport to the hostel was an overload for our senses. The smells and colors were so vibrant and in your face. Everytime we stopped the van people trying to sell us anything would crowd the windows and practically throw their products into the car until we would buy it.
After getting settled in the hostel, I went out with Lorna to walk around the neighborhood for a couple of hours. It is very hot here, but not as hot as it can be. I was sweating almost immediately. Of course being the only white people around, people are curious. Everyone wanted to have a conversation with us or ask where we are from or what we are doing here. Ghanaians are incredibly friendly and willing to help with anything when we look the least bit distressed or confused. I bought some plantains, nuts and water all for about 2 cedis (almost 2 dollars). They drink water here out of 300 mL plastic bags. Just bite a small hole out of the top and drink!
While walking, we attracted a crowd of some young school kids who had just gotten out for the day. They stayed with us for a while asking all sorts of questions. Very cute, calling me madam and commenting on the whiteness of my skin. Surpisingly, people don't like it when I take their picture so I have to ask permission, which hinders the amount of photos I take. But hey I have 6 weeks.
We leave for Kumasi tomorrow morning on busses at 6 am and from there we'll get situated with our families.
After getting settled in the hostel, I went out with Lorna to walk around the neighborhood for a couple of hours. It is very hot here, but not as hot as it can be. I was sweating almost immediately. Of course being the only white people around, people are curious. Everyone wanted to have a conversation with us or ask where we are from or what we are doing here. Ghanaians are incredibly friendly and willing to help with anything when we look the least bit distressed or confused. I bought some plantains, nuts and water all for about 2 cedis (almost 2 dollars). They drink water here out of 300 mL plastic bags. Just bite a small hole out of the top and drink!
While walking, we attracted a crowd of some young school kids who had just gotten out for the day. They stayed with us for a while asking all sorts of questions. Very cute, calling me madam and commenting on the whiteness of my skin. Surpisingly, people don't like it when I take their picture so I have to ask permission, which hinders the amount of photos I take. But hey I have 6 weeks.
We leave for Kumasi tomorrow morning on busses at 6 am and from there we'll get situated with our families.
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